Yet looked at as an artwork, where the architect Eric Owen Moss, the ceramicist Ryota Aoki and the musicians in the post-rock band This Will Destroy You are as vital to the experience as the chef, Vespertine is in its way perfect. The entire experience at Vespertine, from the lack of right angles in the dining room, to the throbbing four-note soundtrack, to the overwhelming abstraction of the food, to the stunning cost of dinner, is going to drive many of you insane. The authoritative record of NPR’s programming is the audio record.Let us address the spaceship in the docking port here - not everybody is going to be ecstatic that we are naming Vespertine the best restaurant in Los Angeles. This text may not be in its final form and may be updated or revised in the future. NPR transcripts are created on a rush deadline by an NPR contractor. Visit our website terms of use and permissions pages at for further information. Justin Richmond, NPR News.Ĭopyright © 2018 NPR. RICHMOND: In a 2015 online interview, Jonathan Gold told Vice his mission was to get people to be less afraid of their neighbors. KLEIMAN: You know, he was interested to know what you thought about what you were eating and was always open to a fight (laughter). RICHMOND: Gold was also famous for sharing his table with friends - Evan Kleiman again. She loved how Gold wrote in a way anyone could relate to.ĬAROLINA MIRANDA: I was rereading this this review he had done of a Peruvian restaurant, in which he compared this one Peruvian dish called chicarron de pollo - he compared it to a Peruvian version of chicken mcnuggets. Carolina Miranda was his colleague at the LA Times. In 2007, he became the first and only food writer to win a Pulitzer Prize. He moved to New York to become a restaurant critic for Gourmet Magazine but quickly moved back to LA. And he played cello in punk bands before writing a food column for The LA Weekly called Counter Intelligence. RICHMOND: Jonathan Gold grew up in Los Angeles. And then they sort of got infected by his delight. Evan Kleiman worked with Gold for 20 years on member station KCRW's show Good Food.ĮVAN KLEIMAN, BYLINE: He became the spiritual food guide for people who were new to the city and felt like they'd made the wrong choice coming here. RICHMOND: Now Guelegetza seats 300 people. Somebody was like, don't you know? You were in the LA Times. Co-owner Bricia Lopez says, when Gold wrote his review, the restaurant only had six tables.īRICIA LOPEZ: So one day, my dad walks in and was like, where are all these white people coming from because there were all these white people. RICHMOND: Gold's write-ups could turn a small mom-and-pop place into a big success, like the Oaxacan restaurant Guelegetza. In case you think I love everything, the stuff in that restaurant is absolutely disgusting. That's the remaining Chinese Islamic restaurant. JONATHAN GOLD: That's probably the best dim sum in town at the moment. (SOUNDBITE OF DOCUMENTARY, "CITY OF GOLD") Here he is in the documentary "City Of Gold," driving around the San Gabriel Valley in his truck pointing out some of his favorite restaurants and strip malls. JUSTIN RICHMOND, BYLINE: Unlike almost any other food critic, Jonathan Gold didn't care if a restaurant was fine dining or a hole in the wall. NPR's Justin Richmond has this remembrance. Gold died over the weekend of pancreatic cancer at the age of 57. Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold championed the diversity of food in LA. LA's culinary world is mourning the loss of a titan.
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